Dimashq, 3:00a.m., when arriving at the international airport of Damas, how Syrians lovingly call Damascus, I didn’t know that Syria’s capital will evolve to be the highlight of my Orient journey. There was no hassle when approaching the immigration officer. Just a controlling look in my passport, if there is any indication of an Israel visit, that’s it. Also it wasn’t a problem to drive to town as there are plenty of taxi drivers waiting for business. Unfortunately mini-busses don’t go at that day time. The claimed price of 10US$ (or 500 Syrian Pound – SYP) is ok as the way from airport to city centre is about 25km long. All time I slept at the al-Haramein hostel, which is my recommendation to backpackers. Even if there is only one toilet per floor, everything was clean, inexpensive and its staff very obliging. A heating is something uncommon; often it’s installed but finally not running. I recommend accepting any offer to get an additional blanket. Also al-Haramein helped me in all things like information about busses, general price level and sent my postcards back home.

ATM’s (cash machines) aren’t a problem anymore. Alone within the area around al-Haramein and Yussuf al-Azmeh street you can find 3 machines.

Short after wake up a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice, beside some freshly baked date rolls (filled with squished dates) or baqlawa, that’s how to start into a Damascene day. Also, costing from 30 to 60 Cent, this culinary pleasure isn’t extraordinarily expensive.

When wandering through the streets of Damas you quickly get involved in its Old Town, which is dominated by the huge roofed bazars (souq). One of those souq, if even not the main bazar, is souq al-Hamidiyya, leading the wanderer directly from Saladin’s monument to the western gate of the big Umayyad mosque. Through the tin roof, its windows or one of those countless bullet holes caused by a French attack, lots of sunbeams light up al-Hamidiyya.

Despite its Aleppo counterpart the Damascene bazar appears more unsorted. It might happen that next to bridal wear and the hottest Syrian hot pants shawarma stall exhalations are taking over control, while some meters further ice cream parlour “Bakdash” sells its superb vanilla ice cream topped with pistachio slices. Not far away from that scenery you can find the tea man, offering fresh black tea spiced with mint. In the side roads sitting men are demonstrating the capabilities of their vegetable knifes, while the guy next to him is selling toys. Unfortunately also war toys, such as a crawling soldier shooting his gun every 20-30cm.
Ignoring Damas’ tight traffic is impossible. When paying 25 Pound it is possible to shorten way while driving through the souq. Stupidly such a short cut is going through the spice souq’s main part. Fragrances and flavours won’t appear on the agenda at rush hour. When buying there, please don’t take the upper layer of a spice heap.

The end of al-Hamidiyya souq is dominated by the remains of roman Jupiter temple. Its arches and columns are immediately framing the western gate of Umayyad mosque. The small square between mosque and temple is home of hundreds of pigeons. Even if the feeder is throwing only one corn in the air, all birds cloud-like flock to it.

Before entering the mosque foreign tourist have to purchase a ticket first. You can buy the ticket near the western gate, when walking from the gate to Saladin’s tomb, following the “cloakroom” signs. That cloak room is also a ticket office. Cloak room? Yes, cloak room. Foreign women have to wear a frock, as women due to Islam religion have to cover hair and body. For men entering a mosque is pretty simple, everything’s just about dropping shoes. The Umayyad mosque had been built in 705 on the very same location where once the chapel of John the Baptist stood. The building is constructed on the foundation walls of the sanctuary and houses a shrine, in which the head of John the Baptist is laid out.
The inner courtyard of 2001 restored Umayyad mosque is huge and impresses above all by its polished marble ground floor. The rear end of the colonnade walk holds even more colourful ground tiles with even more fine appliqued marble types. When overlooking the courtyard from the Western Gate, you will first recognise the Asian appearing timbered clock house, which is framed by the roundish Treasury building to the left and at the right by the Fountain (far end of the courtyard). Mosque’s interior ground is covered with oriental carpets all over. Taking off shoes has an “amusing” side effect: like every mosque’s interior, here it smells like entering a men college gymnasium. Nothing for sensitive noses ;-)
The mosque’s southern wall also houses Minbar and Mihrab. Prayers pray in that direction as the southern wall is in one line with Mecca. That is something you at the latest notice when standing between wall and prayers while taking photos of John the Baptist’s shrine ;-) Though, even when making such a faux pas, people don’t approach you with incomprehension or anger. It’s the opposite; they politely wait and even explain why they are waiting for you. Yet another demonstration Arabs being polite and communicative people.

Small hint: When inside the mosque, NEVER put your shoes down on the ground. If you are fancying a walk back in socks only stop reading here ;-) It’s recommended to take the shoes with you, eventually in a bag, cause leaving them behind (outside the mosque) might end up in an endless search as (daily seen) a flood of visitors surges into the sanctuary.
Saladin is omnipresent, and not only as a larger-than-life monument next to souq al-Hamadiyyeh’s entrance. Northwards and directly next to Umayyad mosque you can find the much higher cultural treasure: Saladin’s tomb. The big commander is buried in the wooden sarcophagus, while the white marble one next to him is a present of German emperor William II. Syria’s and Germany’s historical connection is unforgotten. Wherever you walk you will see even much more friendly faces when mentioning that you are from “Almanya”, Germany. Even a tear of joy is shed when adding you are from “Berlin” ;-) Afik, a Syrian who I met on way to Aleppo told me a bit more about this sympathy’s roots. Germany’s plan and action to build a railway from Istanbul to Baghdad as well as to Mecca and Medina, and its connected (also political) commitment are being appreciated even today: “Both, French and British, kicked Saladin’s sarcophagus, but you the Germans donate him a new home.” In general Saladin is quite alive in people’s hearts and memories; they are visibly proud when talking about Salah ad-Din Yusuf bin Ayyub.

It is easy to recognise the souq being Old Town’s heart. Branching off you can find the pearls of Damas’ centuries lasting history. To me the greatest highlight was Khan Assad Basha (also called Khan Assad Pacha or Pasha), which is a secondary room of the spice souq and not far away from Azem Palace. Underlined by afternoon sunlight breaking through different windows, Khan Assad Basha’s illumination is a contrast-rich scenery which couldn’t be a more typical setting for a 1000 and 1 night fairy story. The style of interchanging lines and colours sees its continuation at the Azem Palace. There you can view an oriental stately home, even including a Madrasah (Koran school) and a Hamam, the Arabian steam bath.

Khan Assad Basha will deeply impress you…

When being hungry you should visit the northern side roads of souq al-Hamadiyyeh to indulge yourself with grilled chicken at one of the shawarma stalls. To me Damascene shawarma was the best of the entire journey. Ingredients: grilled chicken, some fresh tomatoes, strips of gherkin, spices (cardamom, cinnamon & co.) and last but not least: a little splodge of chicken lard. All that is covered with Arabian flat bread, rolled and shortly deep-fried in olive oil. Shawarma is surely calories bomb, but it is a must when you’re into tasting the Orient. A similar treat is Shish Tawook, which is also made of grilled chicken. The secret are the spices, a mixture of cardamom, cinnamon, curcuma and cumin, black pepper and mace. It is also rolled in Arabian flat bread but served with salad as side dish.

Fridays in Islamic countries are quiet, very quiet. Otherwise crowded Old Town streets are empty and are only inhabited by some pigeons. While wandering southwards from Sayyida Roqqaya an older man crossed my ways. He looked at me, in my eyes and immediately insinuated I should follow him. He pulled out his keys and suddenly we were standing in a well-designed courtyard, having a fountain in its centre and an orange tree near the entrance gate. My view follows the clouds of finely sprayed water, originating from the fountain to take to the skies. The old man comes back and brought me a glass of black tea with 2-3 leafs of fresh mint. Tasty! Again he insinuates me to follow him, again he pulls out the key and suddenly we’re among a flood of books, the old books of Al Dhaheriyah library. Right across the street he’s pulling his key another time and a heavy door reveals the tomb of sultan Baibars, who once send the Crusaders packing.

In a road leading to Straight Street garage doors are widely open and reveal another Damascene secret: the small cars of the Old Town fire fighters, just small enough to fit the small lanes and to quickly arrive in case of emergency. Not far from the fire brigade the day before an army of 12 richly coloured busses left Straight Street towards Bab Sharqi, the eastern gate of Old Town. Their thundering Diesel engines roused the small and tightly conjoined houses of Old Town’s Christian quarter from sleep. Which sounded like a military transport in the first instance, was much harmless: School busses are bringing the kids back home after attending Koran school. The busses pass me while curious eyes are watching the camera draped blonde guy :-)
Not far away is the market, which is far away from Western plastic package civilisation. “A kilogram of carrots for 10 Pound” indicates a bargainer with hands up. Beside him fresh and aromatic organic lemons, as well as scallions await its fate. But there can be also odd things seen here… Your chances to see a butcher offering freshly slaughtered camel are high; if desired with lots of parsley ;-) Suddenly you smell freshly baked bread and follow your nose. You won’t stand long in front of the bakery as quite soon you’re asked to step in. Hey presto you’ve got warm bread in your hands while having a chat. Warm flat bread tastes even better when topped with a splotch of date honey.

A lot of people are celebrating their lunch break while watching me how I make my way through Old Town lanes. Not few of them offer me some food as well as asking if I could take a photo of them. It is a pity that my Arabian isn’t sufficient enough to explain them digital photo technology as in private they hoped to get a copy of the photo I’ve taken in the next 1-2 days. To 4-5 people I made clear that I am not from Damas, but I can send them their photo by post.

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Date: Apr 8th, 2007 · Comment RSS · Tags: Syria