Krak des Chevaliers

Also on a Friday everything does not stand still. Without any bigger problems you can start a round trip through Syria. Starting from Damascene bus station Harasta you can easily make it to all northern and western parts of the country, i.e. to Homs, Aleppo or even Tadmur (Palmyra) and Dair az-Zaur.
My journey first brought me to Homs to get my connection to Qala’at al Hosn, the Krak des Chevaliers, a fortress built in 1031 and used by the Crusader from 12th century. The castle had been the last safe refuge before sultan Beybars put them to flight.

The Krak is located more or less close to the highway Homs-Tartus highway. Vans or mini busses to Tartus are starting from a separate garage, which is next to the bigger overland bus station. Though mini busses or vans don’t directly approach Krak des Chevaliers. In case the driver doesn’t understand just say “Qala’at al Hosn” while crossing the fingers. This means that you want to be dropped off at the road leading from the highway to Qala’at al Hosn. Usually all day there are waiting taxis and even mini busses. When you reach that point alone, only by yourself, cards are stacked against you as the usual price of 50 Syrian pounds will increase to something about 200. The drive from Homs to the drop off point (side road leading to Krak des Chevaliers) lasts about 45 minutes. Climbing up to the fortress takes another 30 minutes.

On the west side of the castle you can find Hotel Baibars (also spelled Beybars), offering accommodation for non-amusing 20 Dollars (~1000 Pounds). The fact that from this hotel you can see the sunrise behind the castle from your bed, just by looking outside the window, somewhat redeems the high price. In the early morning hours at about 5 my room neighbour saw me in action when professionally taking photos of the sunrise. The fortress itself isn’t illuminated; there are only three massive lamps attached to the outer walls. Those three spotlights are the only lamps on a road without crash barrier. Austrians would call it “enough downfall space” as the hillside is going down 200-300 meters.
When the first sunbeams get ready to take control over the sky, you can watch an amazing play of colours, ranging from navy blue to mandarin/rose. The fortress exposed to wind as it’s built on peak plateau up the Syrian heights. It might become thin-skinned cold in the morning hours. The warmth of the first sunbeams is some enjoyment though.

The Krak itself is a huuuuuuuuge man’s playground. Unmolested by barriers you can descend to the inner of the fortress to go for a stroll through mediaeval caves, rooms and corridors. Vista from command tower is great as in the North-East you can spot Orontes valley while being surrounded by the Lebanon height in the South. Locals say on good days, at clear sight you can even see Cyprus emerging on the horizon. The historic breath is omnipresent when walking through the inner castle as you can have a look at amazing constructions like cloistered courtyard, crenels, a chapel and of course the main hall housing the national emblem of Richard I of England, the Lion-hearted.

While waiting for admission I met a group of young Kurds who went on an excursion to see their country face to face. Immediately we had a conversation and took a walk around the castle. There were thousands of inchworms around us, even as thick as a carpet.

Once a year on the opposite peak plateau of Alawite Heights a public festival and a big picnic is being held. A lot of people are staying over night as in the past years there had also been a firework started.
Those who want to keep travelling can take the mini bus departing from the fortress’ bottom. Reaching Tartus, Baniyas or Latakya is no problem as well as also going back to Homs to make it to see Hama’s Norias or Aleppo’s massive citadel.